And you were complaining the holidays just aren't the same anymore. Were they ever? Really? Did Norman Rockwell’s America ever
exist? Never mind, that’s another story. This one is about how normal our quiet
little celebrations really are. Comparatively speaking, of course. Festivals
from around the world will make you wonder why you ever complained that your
neighbor uses purple Christmas lights.
I have often thought that the teaching of children that life
is happily-ever-after and “yes that’s a wonderful finger painting of a brown
blob, dear” may be wrong. Life isn’t like that, right? There are pitfalls, road
bumps, and rats. Brown blobs aren’t always made of chocolate.
If you don’t want your kids to have to learn the hard way,
then maybe Batalla de la Rata Meurta is the way to go.
This is an annual festival with piñatas. Only half the
piñatas don’t have candy. They have a dead rat. Make of it what you will,
that’s a life lesson right there.
This is technically the Festival of Saint Pedro Nolasco. But
the Dead Rat Party is way more hipster. The rules of the party are that if the
piñata in question is of the rat variety and not the mm yummy sweet goodness
variety (never the twain should meet cuz everyone knows rats hate sugar), then
the “winner” of the rat piñata celebrates by throwing the dead rat at someone.
This leads to a sort of dead-rat hot-potato game. Fun for all.
In El Salvador they remember their saint saving them from
the demons of an erupting volcano by throwing balls of fire at the demons. (I
read once that an eye witness to a plane crash stated that the pilot pulled a
can of carb heat out of the glove compartment and sprayed it on the engine.
Memory is a funny thing.)
To celebrate, the residents of Nejapa, the town saved by
Saint Jeronimo, throw flaming kerosene-soaked rags at each other. Wahoo. They
do wear water-soaked gloves. Safety first! And you thought dodge ball was too
intense. Wussies.
Bous a la Mar: Sea Bulls
Here’s a little-known fact: Bulls are fairly chill. Sure if
they think you are tryin’ to get at their cow they go a lil testosteroney on
you. Or if you’re poking things into them. Or… yeah OK there are several ways
to piss off a bull.
Anyway, angry bulls can generally be avoided by staying out
of the corral. Simple.
Unless you’re at Bous a la Mar. At this party, fun is had by
all when you get the bull to chase you… into the sea. It’s kind of like running
of the bulls, only the bulls aren’t all that keen on jumping into the water.
They only make the big leap into the waves if you make them angry enough. As
the bull gets increasingly irritated, he gets less intelligent (like the rest
of us) and eventually chases one of his tormentors right into the sea.
I suggest this process would go more quickly if the guys
wore thongs. They irritate me instantly.
Lanterns. In China that means those pretty paper things with
candles in them, right?
Usually. But a good festival also has fireworks, unless your
village is too poor to afford fireworks. In that case, just throw molten iron
at a cold wall. It’s cool. Try it. (No don’t try it.)
Anyway, while in the rest of China fireworks are the order
of the day, in Nuanquan this festival starts with the collection of old things
made of iron each year, to be melted down for wall throwing. I suppose a
cynical person might think that the local blacksmith invented this party as a
way of keeping iron circulating since a cast iron pot has a nasty habit of
lasting more or less forever. Those Nuanquan guys always had to be different.
Once the iron is melted and the night is dark and the wall
is cold, the fun-loving iron smith dons a sheepskin coat and hat (I’m just
going to go ahead and assume that these are fire-retardant) and throws ladles
full of the molten metal at the wall. The iron shatters into thousands of
flaming slivers that bounce back off the wall in beautiful patterns.
As expert molten-iron thrower Wang Fu so eloquently put it,
“So long as you’re not afraid to die, it’s OK.”
See all the pretty colors? You very well might if you
participate in the festival of colors in India and Nepal. This spring festival
celebrates the arrival of spring by painting everything in lovely spring
colors. Buildings, people, the ground, but mostly people.
Purple-pink-yellow-red-orange people. Fun! (Saw it once after a plate of really
spicy Indian food, but that doesn’t count because it wasn’t March and I was
asleep.)
In the awake Indian and Nepalese version, people throw these
colors all over each other, resulting in a human color explosion that both
Mother Nature and the Haight-Castro can envy. I get impatient for spring
flowers, too. I’d have to hope they stain and that people show up in bikinis
for weeks of interesting tan-line fun. But that’s probably just me.
While the traditional recipe for this festival calls for
dyes made of natural herbs [and spices (an American cannot say “herbs” without
saying “and spices”)], the reality of the world is that the dyes sometimes
include oxidized metals, industrial dyes (Remember when they got rid of that
dye in rat poison because it caused cancer?), acids, and other not-natural nor
herb nor spice things. Some of these can cause blindness, illness, and irritate
the skin.
Nothing says spring like a colorful rash.
Entroido: Fire, Dirt and Ants
If there were an award for randomness in festivals, this
would be the winner. Like most spring festivals, it involves people going a
little crazy. We approve of that. But pick a theme!
The festival of Entroido is celebrated in Galicia as an
extended version of Carnival. Those crazy Gauls.
- Peliqueiros: The festival begins with the donning of these costumes, which include a very large hat adorned with a strange picture, a scary mask, a whip, ruffled pants and cowbells.
- Fire and Dirt: Because this bit is so fun, it’s repeated a few times. On Fridays (Who doesn’t go a little crazy after work on Friday?) leading up to Lent, people run through the streets carrying burning hay torches. Other people throw dirt from their second-story windows. Yeah, I got nothin’. You make sense of it.
- Feast Day: The Saturday before Ash Wednesday, it’s a feast! Dancing, singing, and eating lots of grilled meat are the order of the day. (Can one come to just one day of this festival?)
- S&M: The following day, the Sunday before Ash Wednesday, the peliqueiros line the streets and whip passersby. All in fun, of course. *wink* Afterwards, more fun is had by all when the peliqueiros go from house to house and eat up people’s food. It’s like trick or treat if the trick or treaters had whips.
- Farrapada: The fun-loving Galicians are not done yet! Monday’s party (while the rest of the world is putting the final sequins on their Carnival outfits) is a street fight. The weapons of choice are flour, ash, and balls of dirt filled with biting ants. It’s important to first douse the ants in vinegar. This infuriates them and makes them more bitey. The afternoon sees the entrance of the morena, a guy with a mask holding a cow’s head on a stick, dressed in a tarp. He lifts women’s skirts and tries to scare people. Add in more food and party-type things just for good measure.
- But Wait There’s More: I’m exhausted, but the Galician’s aren’t done yet. There’s still Tuesday before Ash Wednesday dawns and has everyone behaving for a month and a bit. Tuesday evening is celebrated with a satirical distribution of the (imaginary) parts of a donkey. That’s slightly less random than it sounds. The donkey parts are “distributed” in verse that makes reference to events at the previous year’s festival. (Apparently by someone who can remember the previous year’s festival.) If someone lost something, they might get the donkey’s eyes to keep better track of things. Again, no donkey is harmed in the verse-making.
And that
concludes the Entroida.
Whew. I need the length of that
festival to rest up after writing about it.
Now don’t you feel normal?
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--Gayle